septembre 24, 2012

1776 Diderot's Stay - Norah Waugh [EN]

Pour les lecteurs français, cliquez ici !

(sorry for my english)

After more than 3 years, it was time for me to stop repeating that I would never be able to use one of the uncountable books of my library (
Janet Arnold, Norah Waugh, etc.); so I took the bull by the horns...

After 3 days of patience, the help of my Casio Graphic and my old Epson Laser and also the invaluable advices of "la Couturière Parisienne", I overcame the Diderot's Stay according to Norah Waugh...



1st step
:
enlargement to real size





2nd step :

put parts of pieces together





3rd step :

Take measurements, again and again :

- on each piece of the small template : waist, bust and back width.
- on your body (circumference and front / back): waist, bust, back width, front length.
- add the wished reduction - here 3cm - and the opening after lacing-up - here 3 others cm
- calculate gaps between small template and body measurements.





4th step :

Front piece modification

   I had to add 1cm on bust measurement and 6.5cm on waist measurement.
   To respect piece structure, it was not possible to add directly 6.5cm to waist measurement ; by adding 1cm on side and front bones, the distribution is more homogeneous (in red).




4th step
Front piece modification

The new front piece, once everything is changed : new boning placement, new tabs.


















4th step
Front piece modification

Before / Changes / After




5th step :

Back piece modification


   This time, I had to add 3.5cm on back width, 7.25cm on bust measurement and 6.5cm on waist measurement.


   I choose to add 3.5cm to all 3 measurement on eyelet edge and the rest on side bones (in red).

 


5th step
Back piece modification
   The new back piece, once everything is changed : new boning placement, new tabs


5th step
Back piece modification
Before / Changes / After







6th step: 1st mocke-up

Fast made, with some metallic bones in the strategic places.


Really good try : nothing to add except...


Except shoulder strape ! The only piece that I forgot to enlarge : +8cm!


 


7th step:

Sew boning channel, all the boning channels, too many boning channels!

Back piece boned ; I managed to flatten it only after 48 hours under dictionaries.

 


Last Step : Pictures  !



Last Step : Pictures  !

Last Step : Pictures  !

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